Showing posts with label Abby. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Abby. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Simplicity quote for the day

"When decluttering is frustrating, or you regret spending too much, or you aren’t sure where this whole simplicity journey is headed, remind yourself that you aren’t creating a simple life, you are creating a life."
~~ Courtney Carver, "A Simple Life is Not the End Goal" at BeMoreWithLess

Monday, April 29, 2013

Frugal tips for fashionable dolls


Not fashion dolls...I gave up on sewing for those teeny little wrists and waists a long time ago.  But the "fashionable" 18-inch dolls, old and new, who inhabit our Treehouse...or any of that general size who may be co-habiting with you.

1.  Thread and notions:  Thread is expensive, but you can generally get away with a few basic colours, or, if you're lucky, small or old part-spools of more interesting colours.   Keep enough bobbins wound with the basic colours so that you won't use "have to wind bobbins" as an excuse for not sewing. A lady who taught me sewing and craft lessons years ago used nothing but clear thread in all her craft sewing--she could not be bothered ever changing colours.  (She was also known for her phrase, "what we can't glue, we don't do.")

Quarter-inch elastic is a real basic,  in ruffled sleeves and in the waists of pants and skirts.  Half-inch will work too, at least in waistbands.  You might not want to use dollar-store elastic in your own clothes or other places it will get hard wear, but for the fairly gentle use it will get in dolls' clothes, it should work fine.

I've tried Velcro on doll clothes, but the adhesive kind doesn't always stick that well, and the sewn kind can be hard to sew on, either by hand or machine.  You also have to keep buying it new--I don't see much used Velcro. So most of the doll clothes I sew now have snaps on them--I keep finding vintage packets at rummage sales.  Sewing snaps on isn't the quickest thing either, but it's something to do while listening to the radio at night.

2.  Fabric:  Old clothes can be a great source of fabric, if they're not too worn. (Holes are okay--you can cut around those--but fabric that's worn out or stained isn't going to look good.)  Plain-coloured or small-print pillowcases (from the thrift store) can be good, and they have lots of fabric in them.  Knit (stretchy) fabrics can be a lot harder to work with than woven types, so unless you have a very co-operative machine, a serger, or just like a challenge, stay away from anything with Lycra.  (If you need a really stretchy piece of clothing, think about knitting or crocheting it instead.)  If you're recycling items of children's clothing, you might be able to use some parts of them as-is, such as using sleeves for pant legs, or at least making use of a nice finished edge.  Try fitting a pattern piece (such as a pants pattern) onto an existing clothes item; you might be able to save yourself a couple of seams.

If you're buying a grab bag or  miscellaneous bunch of fabric, think about the overall value of what you're getting.  If you get a large package of odds and ends for a dollar or two, and use only one piece or make only one item of clothing, that's still a much better deal than paying for ready-made doll clothing.  Take a chance, and if you find you can't use most of what's in there, you can always send it on.  (We bought a pack like that recently, and it turned out to be largely fake leather and suede pieces--most of them were too heavy for doll use.  But there were a few good pieces in there too.)

When you're using frugal sources of fabric, especially scrap pieces, you sometimes end up a little bit short, especially for larger pattern pieces like dresses and skirts.  Cut the main pieces first, the ones that will show; and then if you're short, use non-matching fabric for things like facings (the inside parts).

If a skirt calls for a rectangle 22 inches wide, and your piece is only 18 inches wide, you might be able to patch in an extra piece from somewhere else on the fabric.  If the fabric's dark enough and you hide it at the back, it probably won't be noticed. (The dark corduroy skirt above has an extra panel in the back, but you have to look closely to see it.)  You can also patch in other-coloured side panels (or a bottom panel if you're short on length), and make it look like it was done on purpose.  Real-people clothes use ideas like that all the time--different-coloured sleeves, colour-blocked dresses.

3.  Fabric #2: What's in a name?  I've posted before about how we went looking for fat quarters, and ended up with bandannas of several colours and prints.  They were the same size as a fat quarter, and much cheaper.  (Then there are the plaid pants in the photo below, made from dollar-store men's boxer shorts.)


4.  What's in a name again?  New patterns are fun, but a few basic patterns will cover a LOT of doll territory.  Pajama pants are the same as elastic-waist pants.  And the doll doesn't care if her skirts are all made from the same pattern.  Different colours and fabrics will make the same pattern look very different.  The green V-neck top and the African-print shirt in the photos above are exactly the same pattern. Also, you can change basic pattern pieces:  make shorts longer (like Crissy's jean shorts, above), skirts shorter.

5.  Explore your doll's personality and style.  I'm serious.  If you don't know, ask the owner what her doll likes to do and what her favourite colours are.  Does she look like she fits a particular decade or style?  Dollygirl's Crissy, a vintage '70's doll, looks good in groovy clothes, which is a good thing since the patterns we have for her are all bell-bottoms and long vests.  American Girl Kit is meant to be from the 1930's, and for some reason Kit does look particularly good in vintage-y styles.  Dollygirl doesn't usually put Kit in fleece pants and jean vests; it's just not her particular vibe.

Dollygirl has one doll, Crystal, who's kind of a Sporty type.  Dollygirl set the other three up exploring a trunk full of antique dresses, but Crystal thought it was more fun to check out a pile of old books and a set of dominoes.  The last thing I made for Kit was a wrap dress; Crystal got a smock top and shorts.

6.  Have fun sewing.  Forcing bias tape around a bolero jacket is not worth bad language and blood.  Crochet one instead.  Or make the doll a poncho.  Do what you like doing, and what will make your young clothes-users (live and stuffed) happy.

Photos by Dollygirl.  

Linked from Festival of Frugality #390 at Frugal Rules.

Monday, April 22, 2013

Frugal Doll Fashion Runway, Spring 2013


Crissy's print top and shorts:
Fabric, Wal-mart fat quarters
Pattern; shorts, Simplicity 9698; top, Simplicity 9138 (vintage Crissy pattern)

Jean vest:

Fabric, recycled fleece poncho and denim skirt
Vest pattern from Bunkhouse Books' Stitches & Pins: 

Pink fleece pants:
Fabric, recycled fleece poncho
Pattern: Stitches & Pins "pajama pants"
Green turtleneck and pants:
Fabric, recycled stretch-knit top (the sleeves became the pants legs)
Turtleneck pattern from Sew the Essential Wardrobe for 18-inch Dolls, by Joan Hinds and Jean Becker
Pants pattern: Stitches & Pins, "pajama pants"

Green v-neck top:
Fabric from a thrift-store grab bag
Pattern: Stitches & Pins "pajama top"

Plaid pants:  sewn from dollar-store men's boxer shorts!
African-print shirt, made for an 18-inch doll but recently trimmed down for Crissy:
Fabric from an outlet-store grab bag
Pattern: Stitches & Pins "pajama top"

Crissy's jean shorts:
Fabric, recycled denim skirt
Pattern: shorts from Simplicity 9698 (Crissy pattern), but made longer

Corduroy skirt and fleece-lined vest:
Fabric, recycled fleece poncho; corduroy from thrift-store grab bag
Skirt pattern: Stitches & Pins
Vest pattern: Stitches & Pins


All photos by Dollygirl.  Copyright 2013 Dewey's Treehouse.

Monday, November 19, 2012

Cheap and Classic Cardboard Tutorial: 18-inch Doll Table and Chairs


Dollygirl's dolls have been needing a table, and chairs to go with it. Doll furniture is not something we see a lot of in local stores, and the online options (new and used) are generally expensive; nice, but expensive.  So Mama Squirrel came up with some almost-free alternatives.  We used what we had; you can adapt our plans for whatever dolls (or boxes) you have.

The table
The table base was made from the insert to a two-piece cardboard file box; that is, a corrugated cardboard box 12 inches long by 9 1/2 inches high, and 4 inches deep. 

You'll notice a small cutout on each side, which I used for the legs; that's optional.  I cut the 9 1/2 inches down slightly, to about 8 3/4 inches; otherwise it would have been just a bit too high for the dolls to sit at.  I realize that not everybody is going to have the insert to a file box; but I think you could find a cereal box or other cardboard food box that would be about the right size; go for the sturdiest you can find, and reinforce it with extra cardboard or a second box shoved inside, if you think it needs it (especially if your box is not corrugated cardboard).  Whatever box you use has to be both deep enough to be able to sit firmly on its edge, and strong enough to support the tabletop and whatever you want to put on the table.
I stuffed the box with crumpled newspaper, and glued a piece of scrap cardboard into the open space to hold the newspaper in (not shown in the photos).

I glued some decorative file-folder cardboard (we found several packages of fancy folders at a yard sale) to the top and sides. 

You could use scrapbooking paper, wrapping paper, or whatever else you have, and possibly add a coating of something like decoupage medium if it seems to need extra protection.  For our purposes, the folders were enough.

That's it for the base!

The tabletop is purposely not glued on, both for storage reasons and because I wanted to make it reversible.  I glued two of the decorative file folders (cutting off the tabs) to a piece of cereal-box cardboard, and then added clear sticky plastic on each side for protection (leaving a bit of overhang).  For the size of table base we had, a tabletop the size of a file folder was just right.  If your base is narrower, a smaller tabletop might work better.

Again, you could use any kind of decorative paper or even coloured sticky vinyl; something in woodgrain might be nice.  If I were doing it again, I think I might use stronger cardboard in the middle; because what we ended up with was not much heavier than a laminated placemat.  It does work all right (the dolls have been using it now for a few days), but a more solid core wouldn't hurt.

The chairs

Each chair was made from two pieces of a Dr. Oetker baking-mix carton; we picked up two for free at the supermarket.  They're made like thrones, both for sturdiness and to accommodate the sitting difficulties of dolls who don't have joints in all the normal human places. 

I cut a main piece from each carton, 10 1/2 inches high, 7 1/2 inches wide (although it spreads out to more like 8 inches at the open end), 5 inches deep, in the shape of a flat back with three sides; and a seat piece, same shape, 7 inches high, 7 1/2 inches wide, 5 inches deep. There were some flaps at the top of the carton, which I folded down inside the back and sides.  I slid the two parts together (didn't glue them), with the closed part of the bigger piece at the bottom, and the open part at the top.  The seat piece juts out a bit from the main piece, but I wanted it that way to give the dolls a good deep seat.  It's fine if the two pieces come from different boxes or otherwise don't match; you're going to slipcover them anyway.

I used part of a vintage white cotton bedsheet to make fitted slipcovers.  (Any medium-weight fabric would work fine.) This is MUCH easier than it sounds.  Once you have the cardboard pieces made, you use those to make the patterns, either on a large piece of paper or right on the backside of the fabric.  Trace around the back of the large piece; then flip it up and trace around it again for the matching front piece--leaving just a bit of space between the two to allow for the thickness of the cardboard.  Turn the cardboard on its side and trace each side twice, again allowing a small gap between pieces.  An optional bit I added on:  add a small amount to the very front, to make a flap that will go under the seat piece.  Add a quarter inch to the pattern edges and bottom for seam allowances.  Your pattern piece will look about like this:

The pattern piece I made for the smaller seat section was very similar:  I traced the top, then the front, then the sides.  I really should have traced the back as well, or at least a flap going partway down the back, because if you don't, you will end up with a bit of a loose edge at the back of the seat, when you put it together.  Add seam allowances and hem allowances (unless you're using a finished edge of the sheet, which is what I did here).  The pattern piece for the seat will look like this, without the back:

Here's what the fabric pieces look like, cut out, with the flap added to the large piece and the fourth side added to the seat piece.  You can tell the sheet was a bit wrinkled--I did iron it afterwards.


The sewing is what Adrian Mole would call dead easy.  Don't forget to turn the fabric inside out first.  On the seat piece, just sew up the side seams, then turn up the hem and zigzag that if you need to.  On the main piece, you will have two small seams that will end up on the very front edges of the chair.  If you're not sure where they go, try the slipcover on the chair, inside out, and pin the two seams closed before you sew.  Plus a hem--turn up a quarter inch and zigzag.  Don't hem the extra flap, if you made one; just start hemming at one side of it, work around, and stop when you get to the other side of the flap.

Slip the slipcovers on...

...put the two parts together...

...and that's it.  Oh--you might want to add some padding on the seat, between the slipcover and the cardboard.  You could glue some foam or batting onto the cardboard seat, but I just slipped a folded washcloth between the two.  One note: I did add a bit of tape to the back edges of the seat slipcover to help it stay put.  If you add the fourth side when you cut out the fabric, you won't need to do that.

The dolls are enjoying their new dining room!  (Dollygirl is going to take a photo of the whole thing plus dolls.)

All photos by Mr. Fixit.  Copyright 2012, Dewey's Treehouse.

Linked from Mad in Crafts Link Party #131.  Also linked from Festival of Frugality #366.

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Frugal costumes: doll-sized creations





Abby's cat costume:  One pair of super-stretchy black child's tights, snipped off at the shins and with armholes cut just below the waistband--no hemming or sewing required. We used the cut-off parts for sleeves (did sew those on), and added a snap at the back. Paws:  black mittens, crocheted for the occasion. Felt ears made by Dollygirl.  Sneakers: Springfield Dolls.

Crissy's Gypsy outfit: skirt and shawl sewn from yard-saled fabric.  Scarf: vintage handkerchief.  Jewelry made by Dollygirl.

Crystal's Princess dress:  sewn for Abby last summer.  Shoes: Springfield Dolls.  

Block calendar:  family heirloom.

Photos by Dollygirl.

Saturday, August 25, 2012

What dolls do on a hot day



Lemonade stand made by Dollygirl.  Crissy's bellbottoms and Abby's sweater by Mama Squirrel.

Photographs by Dollygirl, Dewey's Treehouse, 2012